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Take a Walk on the Park’s Mild Side

John McKinney is the author of "Day Hiker's Guide to California's State Parks" (Olympus Press, $14.95)

The hike around Zumwalt Meadow and along the South Fork of the Kings River shows off a gentler, more subtle side of Kings Canyon National Park--a contrast with the park’s steep Sierra slopes and towering sequoias.

Zumwalt Meadow was named for lawyer Daniel K. Zumwalt, whose client was the Southern Pacific Railroad. History is hazy about Zumwalt’s behind-the-scenes role in aiding the formation of General Grant National Park, forerunner of Kings Canyon. Zumwalt Meadow, like its namesake’s role in history, is fading.

Trees surrounding the meadow are slowly engulfing the grassy expanse, a natural progression that occurs frequently in the park and elsewhere in the High Sierra. A second scenic attraction on the way--Roaring River Falls--is curiously named also. The falls are not named for their roar but for the Roaring River, which creates them. Some waterfall critics say the two falls (about 20 and 40 feet) resemble chutes more than cascades, though such distinctions seem irrelevant before the inspirational scene.

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You can visit Roaring River Falls by way of a paved 0.2-mile path from California Highway 180 that’s full of tourist traffic, but taking the long way via Zumwalt Meadow will add something special to your park experience.

After your hike, walk the short path from road’s end to Muir Rock. This outcropping by the Kings River was a favorite speaking platform of the great naturalist John Muir, who urged Sierra Club members and anyone else who would listen to preserve wondrous Kings Canyon.

Directions to trail head: Follow Highway 180 nearly to its terminus at Roads End. Look for the signed parking area on the right side of the highway.

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The hike: Head south along the riverbank to a suspension bridge. Cross over the Kings River and head back upriver (north). Soon you reach the junction with the loop trail and a choice of directions. Fork right to begin a saunter along the south leg, which soon crosses a rockslide, boulders that rolled down from mighty Grand Sentinel towering to your right. Savor changing vistas of the river and meadow, as well as Grand Sentinel and North Dome. The return (north) leg heads along the river, with the meadow on your left this time.

After joining a wood walkway over a boggy area, you close the loop. Retrace your steps to the suspension bridge and the parking lot or keep walking downriver from the suspension bridge 1.8 miles more to Roaring River Falls.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Zumwalt Meadow Loop, River Trails

WHERE: Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

DISTANCE: Loop around Zumwalt Meadow is 1.5 miles round trip; to Roaring River Falls is 3.6 miles round trip.

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TERRAIN: Grassy Zumwalt Meadow and banks of Kings River.

HIGHLIGHTS: Roaring River Falls.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Easy.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, Three Rivers, CA 93271; tel. (559) 565-3134.

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