24-Hour High-Protein Fun at Edie’s

“Good eats, great value and fabulous fun.”

That’s what they claim to be serving at Edie’s diner, 4211 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, (213) 823-5339. I’m all for the first two, but I’m always skeptical about restaurants that claim to be fun. And when I walked into the place and saw all those gum-snapping waitresses, I almost walked right out the door.

In retrospect, I’m glad I didn’t. As diners go, this one is pretty good. Edie’s is open 24 hours a day, it makes a good hamburger (on homemade buns) and the mashed potatoes are so authentic they come with lumps. This is a place that serves everything that’s supposed to be served in diners--fried chicken and Salisbury steak and short ribs and chili and meat loaf. (Note the protein theme.) There’s a great juke box too. Still, some of it is just too much fun: I could do without the cute signs (as in “head jerk”) and cute prices (sandwiches from $2.48-$5.26). And that bubble gum has simply got to go.